Archive for March, 2009

This page will be updated as I learn more about Strikkegarn.

So far, I’ve noticed:

  • Gauge changes with washing & blocking
  • It softens (significantly) when washed/blocked

Needle/Gauge experiences (all after blocking!):

  • 2.5 mm — about 28/29 sts per 10 cm
  • 3.0 mm — (barn sweater will tell me)
  • 3.5 mm — (wish I’d saved from the stockings, the pattern is for 24 sts / 10 cm,  but I didn’t keep records on my actual)

Time to figure this pattern out.  I want to use Rauma’s BabyGarn (Fingering / 4 ply) to make a sweater for a 2 year old.  I’ll have to reverse engineer the pattern.  Time to crack open the book & figure out what’s going on.

I’m going to use the sizes from Yarn Standards,  which means that I’m going to target the Neck-to-Cuff length to be 45.5 cm & the Chest 50.5 cm.  Yarn Standards uses 21.5 cm for the neck-to-waist measurement, and I’ll need to plan the sweater longer than that, so the sweater length is near hip length.

Lessons learned:

  • Block the mittens together.  I blocked the 1st mitten alone & a bit of the color bled.  The second did not bleed, so there is a slight variance in color.
  • Funky:  it’s hard to put these mittens on after my coat is already on.  There is something about the non-ribbed cuff that is awkward (hard to stuff under my jacket cuff).  This might be made worse by the 8-row color “roll” I added to the cuff.
  • Next time, alter the thumb gusset pattern so there is a column of “green” to divide the “white” lines.  That means I’ll need to alter how I pickup stitches when knitting the thumb, but it’s very do able.
  • I know why the designer did not continue the palm pattern exactly onto the inside of the thumb, but it certainly looks funky.  My inner fussy finisher can’t stop thinking about another way to “solve” this.
  • I think I like having one (not two) stitches of the contrast color dividing the front & back half.  Two stitches are just too thick.  (See Egyptian Mittens for a one stitch division.)

Things I’ve done

  • I’ve felted the two mitten a wee bit to make them the same size & fit my hands (the 2nd was a wee bit bigger than the 1st)
See how a row of green would help define the pattern?
See how a column of green would help define the pattern against the side?
Pattern from palm disjointed from thumb back.  On purpose so the thumb tip is balanced.
Pattern from palm disjointed at transition to thumb back. On purpose so the thumb tip is balanced.

The finished produce.

The finished product.

I really like the weight of the Rauma Strikkegarn knitted on 2.5 mm needles.  I’m getting about 28-29 sts / 10 cm.

About the pattern construction:

  • Like:  the thumb gusset fits my hand well
  • Funky:  it’s hard to put these mittens on after my coat is already on.  There is something about the non-ribbed cuff that is awkward (hard to stuff under my jacket cuff).  This might be made worse by the 10-row color “roll” I added to the cuff.
  • Must remember: DO NOT use the 3-needle bind-off for the thumb.  I did.  It was a bad idea.
  • Next time I should consider making the wrist section have fewer stitches & increase for the palm/hand section.

1st Egyptian Mitten is done

1st Egyptian Mitten is done

Should anyone wonder — I think that the Ravelry website is one of the best websites around.  Great concept.  It is honestly helpful (which I can not say for most websites).  Excellent “sticky” properties.

I (heart) Ravelry.

Really, Ravelry Rocks!

Really, Ravelry Rocks!